The ‘fencing’ is actually a discreet length of wire at ground level or buried just below which carries a coded radio signal. The dog wears a ‘receiver collar’ which picks up the radio transmission. As the dog reaches a preset proximity to the wire (say, 6ft), the collar gives off a warning signal. As the dog gets closer to the wire he receives what one manufacturer describes as “mild electrical stimulus” (dogfence). If a human received such a stimulus it might be described as an electric shock.
Does it Work?
The use of negative techniques in training is common and can be effective, if it used intelligently and humanely. The fencing system described above relies on avoidance conditioning (the warning tone); a recognised way of modifying behaviour (for more information see Don’t Shoot the Dog, Pryor, p18 or How Dogs Learn, Burch and Bailey p36), if correctly applied. However, used as a general ‘one size fits all’ approach and sold to the general public as such can be perilous, at least for the dogs.
When trying to contain dogs in any sized area, a trainer must take into account what motivates the dog to remain within the area, and what motivates it to roam. There are many temptations beyond the area a dog is expected to remain in, hence the customary dog owner’s cry of “please shut the gate!” There is a world of fun to be had out there!
When preventing a self-rewarding behaviour using punishment, the pain or fear delivered to the dog must be effective: It must have the desired effect on the behaviour; it must be within the dog’s control to stop it; its force must outweigh the desire to continue with the behaviour. So, the shock delivered must be more painful /frightening than the freedom available is desirable.
How to Employ the System
The ideal way of utilising this fencing is for the dog to discover, on the first attempt, the consequences of approaching it and to never again receive the electric shock (known as ‘one trial learning’). This requires the fencing to have settings controlling the strength of the shock delivered (which some do). The owner or salesperson must somehow figure out the strength required for each individual dog. A tiny, thinned skinned Yorkshire terrier for example, would require less pain than an entire male English Bull Terrier on the scent of an ovulating bitch! Strength of drives and physical sensitivity must be taken into account.
If the shock received by the dog is too weak (the desire to cross the fence outweighs the pain/anticipation of pain) then you have a dog which will make a dash over the border, receive a shock and be very unlikely to cross back again! Turn the voltage up higher than necessary and it is tantamount to abuse.
There is also the responsibility of teaching the dog where ‘safe areas’ border on ‘dangerous areas’, if he is not to blunder around wildly receiving shocks before learning (hopefully) to turn back when he hears the tone, and not panic. Teaching the dog this is dependent on a level of commitment and skill by the purchaser.
Then again, you could just fence off a sensible sized piece of land and exercise the dog regularly!
